The Keralan Backwaters and Fort Cochin

We've not been able to update for a few days as we've been staying in Kumarakom, a village in the backwaters of Kerala. We arrived on 28th December. We almost missed the train from Madurai to Kollam as the platform never appeard on the noticeboard so we assumed it hadn't arrived. As the time of departure grew ever closer a man approached us, a supreme court judge from Madras. He asked us where we were going and rushed over to the enquiry desk to ask what platform we were leaving from, "Train leaving..." he said. Bemused, I went to the enquiry desk myself and passed the guy my ticket ans asked which platform. He went white, then shouted "Go, train leaving! Platform 3!". We dashed to Platform 3 with our bags heavy on our backs. The train was already full, whistling ready to leave. I got to our carriage and threw the bags on and threw myself in, Nikki was right behind me and did the same. No sooner had we got on the train pulled away from the station. Couldn't believe it. We were lucky that a guy decided to talk to us otherwise we would have surely missed the train and had to stay in the dust-den that is Madurai for another night.

Got to Kollam in Kerala at about 9am. The difference in scenery from one state to the next was very apparent. Tamil Nadu was pretty dry, dusty and a bit... blah really. Kerala is so green, palm trees, swamps, rivers, grass, mango trees and spices all over the place. The people seem genuinely friendly as well.

Got a bus from Kollam to Alleppey, where we planned to catch a ferry across the lake to Kumarakom. The bus was so overcrowded. Should seat around 40 people I worked out, but half way into the journey there were easily 60-70 people on board. My toes were being stood on all the time, baby's were being thrust into me and Nikki was being crushed into the window. It was funny, looking back, but very uncomfortable and bit worrying at the time. People were clinging on to the outside. We had our backpacks on our knees and we felt like it was a thousand degrees. Was happy to get off at Alleppey. We found the boat jetty and I asked at the deks if there is a ferry to Kumarakom. The guide book said there are regular ferry's. Of course there was no such ferry, and the guy just looked at me with a blank expression saying "Kumarakom ferry? No, no no". There was a ferry to Kottayam, near Kumarakom, but that didnt leave for another 3 hours and we just wanted to get the hell out of Alleppey. We hopped in a Taxi outside the jetty and paid 800rps to get to Kumarakom. It took about an hour and half to get there. Wonderful scenery through the backwater villages.

Got to the homestay at around 2pm. It was extremely secluded. Really quiet, no traffic noise and no mitherers! Just birds singing and crickets chirping. The house was right on a canal with goats and ducks in the gardens. The family were very nice and very modern. They were Christians so there way of life was quite different from the Hindu people we have come across so far. The food they cooked us was superb, whole fried fish, veg curry's with coconut, stews and loads of breads. Best food so far easily.

We spent two days there just lazing around in the gardens reading and drinking chai. It was really relaxing. On the second night there were a couple more guest there and they made us play charades with the family. It was quite funny as I didnt know all the little signs like 'The' and 'A' but Nikki was a pro.

We took the canoe out on the backwaters which was nice, just a little trip but still managed to get a bit stuck in some undergrowth!

There were some REALLY annoying english people at the homestay with us. Words don't describe the woman but I've been perfecting an impression which I think goes a long way to describing her. She lived in the south of france and never let you forget about it. Thry pronounced all the Indian town names wrong but still insisted they were right, even when told otherwise by Indian people themselves. The woman got right under my skin and the guy was a bit of a drip. I tried to keep my temper with her and did really well, but on the last day I ended up snapping at her over the bus timings. Idiot that she was. Was glad when they left and we got on our way to Kochi.

We're in Fort Cochin now, we'll be here two more nights. Very nice here. It used to be a British enclave and has kept lots of it's colonial character. Last night we went to see the chinese fishing nets and watch the sun go down. There are lots of Thomsons type tourists here on trips from their beach resorts. They seem far too clean. We've travelled here all the way from Chennai and we are so bedraggled now, thanking god for clean undies that we are washing with medicated soap in the sink! We must look a right state compared to that lot.

I haven't had a shave since we arrived. The beard is coming along nicely, if just a bit patchy! If I get chance I will upload a photo. I'm aiming for the Brian Blessed look by the time I get back.

We're having a good time anyway. Travelling here makes you a bit weary. It's hard work I think but it is rewarding. The inbetween travelling has been quite demanding especially when you are tired. Things like waiting for trains and buses and ferrys seem to suck all the life out of you but when you get to where you are going it all seems worth it.

Not sure what is going on here tonight, lots of westerners around so I'm sure they'll be some sort of firework display down by the beach or something. We'll probably be in bed by 10 anyway!

Happy New Year everyone

N&C

Farewell to Madurai and Tamil Nadu

It's now time for us to leave Madurai and move on to Kerala. We had a great time yesterday exploring the massive temple complex that is here (the only thing that IS here to be honest) and eating plenty of food! Why our holidays always revolve around food I dont know!

The first day here we were really tired. We had a wonder around the town after lunch, noticed that you get really mithered here from all sorts of people but it's ok, I guess if we wanted to have trousers made or buy chessboards and wooden snakes we could do so easily! We went back to the hotel for a snooze and then nipped out to a little chai stall down the road where old men were congregating sipping chai. I braved it and queued up while Nikki waited in the wings somewhere. I was in the wrong queue obviously but a nice old Indian man told me what you had to do. Bare in mind that the chai stand was no bigger than a shower cubicle, but you had to queue up at a little desk and say what you wanted (either chai or coffee), you pay the man behind the desk 6 rupees per drink and you get two green tokens. You take these to the chai men (one does the washing, one does the elaborate pouring and one does the handing over of drinks) and then you take your chai, which is about 3000 degrees celsius and do what all the other Indian men are doing, wolf it down whilst burning the inside of your mouth. It was quite funny because we were a bit out of our comfort zone but about 10 people got involved in making sure our order was heard and we got what we wanted. It was probably the highlight of our time in Madurai and it was nice to experience something real and rewarding and forget about all the beggers and touts. We talked the men about where we were from and where we were heading before heading back for a shower and then tea on the rooftop restaraunt.

Yesterday we went round the temple complex and got away with not paying (no one asked us). It was difficult to get around the temple because some shrines were off limits to us 'Foreigners' as the signs said it. We spent loads of time on our balcony taking pictures of street life. Last night we ate on the roof again but it was bloody chaos because a few tour groups had come in and the kitchen couldnt cope. It took 2 hours for our food to come but we had a great table overlooking the temples and we sat there chuckling at people and sipping pepsi's.

Today we checked out and had a wonder, found a supermarket that sells western snacks such as pringles and cadburys. Bought a feast for the upcoming journey, chocolate (gone already), pringles, cashew nuts, cookies, and some panda shaped biscuit thingy's that we scoffed in Vietnam at some point.

We've got a train to catch tonight at 10.45 which gets us to Kollam in Kerala at 9.05am. From there we need to get a bus to Alleppey (2hrs) and from Alleppey we need to get a ferry across the lake to the village of Kumarakom where we'll spend a few days relaxing in the backwaters in a homestay we booked before we left. Got a feeling that tomorrow is going to be a LONG day. Might be no access to the internet until we get to Kochi on 30th December, so have a great New Year everyone.

C&N

Getting to and Escaping from Rameswaram!

Got an unreserved train to Villupuram from Pondicherry. Unreserved basically means there is no seat boking it is just a free for all, but thankfully this train was rather quiet. We got to Villupuram at around 8pm and had 3 hours to wait for the train!

Got mithered a bit at the station. A man who spoke not a word of English came over and started chatting to us. We're ok with that, it is nice sometimes to try and cross that language barrier but god he was annoying. He just stood there saying things in Tamil and broken english. He wouldn't leave so Nikki said "Just ignore him and he will go away" I tried to tell him that him waiting around was pointless and in the end he went away scowling and watched us from afar for the next 3 hours!

Train never appeard on the board for departures so feeling a bit nervous, I sent Nikki over the bridge to the enquiries desk, good Husband that I am. They said it would be here soon and it was. We got on at 10:45 and there was someone sleeping in our beds. I shifted them and they reluctantly moved on. We both got very little sleep on the train and Nikki got bit by a mozzie and her lips swelled up! After a antihistamene administered by me, it went down. We pulled into Rameswaram at 9am and immediately decided we would leave after one night. It was so filthy, rivers of waste and plastic rubbish lining the streets with a couple of dead dogs thrown in for good measure. We were the only westerners in town and felt very aware of that, although that didnt bother us. We saw a building called "Shelter for the Minorities" and thought about stepping in but in the end decided to leave it. Why does everyone watch us here? We're not that interesting! We even had our picture took a few times!

The temple, which was the only reason we came, was not strictly open to non-Hndus but we could have gone in if we wanted but it had rained quite heavily and the rivers of filth and mud running through the main corridor was enough to put us off getting barefoot and trudging through it.

The hotel was a laugh. Lots of Indian pilgrims here watching what we were doing. Decided not to eat here after a dodgy lunch we christened "Dystentry Material". Although we were perfectly fine after it. For tea on Christmas Eve we had a bottle of Coke! Met a really nice Keralan family in the hotel reception when we checking out. The little lad took our picture and when we said we were from Manchester he was joyous. He was a United fan, and most of his family were. Although one of his cousins was a Liverpool fan which we quickly booed! He brought his family to talk to us!

Caught a ramshackle bus for 50rps the next morning, Christmas Morning, and it took 4 Hours to get us to Madurai, which is where we are now. We had a bottle of water for the journey and the Indian famiy next to had a feast. Even had Dairy Milk. We were so hungry our mouths were watering. We went to a hotel in a Rickshaw and got a room for 2 nights here. They have a rooftop restaurant and we ordered a feast straight away - Naan Breads, Rice, Papadams, Two Curries, a bottle of Coke and a bottle of water - 350rps (4 pounds). We will eat even more tonight.

Off to see the temples now and have a wonder.

Enjoy your Christmas everyone.

C&N

About to Leave Pondicherry

Leaving Pondicherry to take the night train south to Rameswaram. Pondy has been kind to us so far but last night was a bit of a bust. Seems to be few places to eat here that aren't either very shady or very expensive. Ended up walking around for a bit then eating Crisps for tea. Not the culinary highlight we were hoping for.

Went to the temple to see the temple elephant blessing people and then got an early night, taking advantage of the clean room and hot water at our hotel.

Today we ate at a rooftop place for breakfast and then stayed in the room with the a/c on before reluctantly heading out into the 40 degree heat! Had some chai at a cafe on the seafront, then a thali at a place a bit like a diner. It was very good.

Sorry it is not that exciting but Pondy isn't that exciting. Lots of French Expats here side by side with some horrible poverty - people sleeping in the street wrapped in nothing but towels etc.

We need to leave for the train station around 6pm. It's quite likely that we won't be able to get any internet access now until we get to Madurai on Boxing Day, so to everyone at home, have a great Christmas and don't get too drunk!

C&N

Mamallapuram to Pondicherry

Decided to get the bus to Pondicherry before getting the overnight train to Rameswaram. We asked at the Bus Station when the bus would leave but after a wobble of the head and a gesture which sent us in the wrong direction we ended up going to the Tourist office to see if they could provide a timetable. Of course they couldnt, but assured us buses left every 20 minutes from the main bus station.

The next morning we got up early after been awakened by people weeing in the alley next to our hotel room so we went out for Masala Dosas again, they are like pancakes filled with potato curry. Very nice and only 20rps (about 35p). We packed up our rucksacks and headed to the bus station to wait for the bus. A new man was at the information desk who told us that buses left every 30 minutes from the main road, outside of the village! We got a rickshaw to the main road and waited on a featureless corner of the dual carriageway until, after about 5 minutes, a bus came hurtling along and picked us up. There were few seats so we ended up getting split up. Nikki was at the front with a great view of the road and reckless driving going on and I sat in the middle while a man asked me a billion questions about what I was doing, where I was going, and how I was getting there.

Arrived in Pondy at about 1pm, got a rickshaw to the hotel, who tried to charge us 150rps for the short journey when we knew it should only be 50. We bartered them down to 80rps. We had already booked to stay in the Executive Inn, just north of the town. Rickshaw driver told us there were no rooms there but we insisted we go.

Pondy is ok, doesnt seem much to do here. There is a canal running through it which is filled with poo and wee and really stinks and the place is a bit bizarre but ok for one night. Very frech influenced here and has some nice looking places to eat. We're going to eat at a pizza place tonight that has a wood fired oven. We're not bored of Indian food yet but from what we have read it's diffucult to get authentic south indian food here.

Got an email of Nikkis mum and dad saying they were fine and heading to Hampi, we will meet them in Gokarna in a couple of weeks.

Tomorrow we will get the train to Villupuram where we will catch the overnight sleeper train to Rameswaram. We plan to spend Christmas there but not sure how Christmassy it will be. It's a pilgramage place that people call the Varanasi of the south so we will see!

Forgot to say, a man on the beach in Mamallapuram asked where we were from, and when we said England he was delighted saying he was friends with a very famous person from England. We wondered who he meant... Maybe David Beckham, Robbie Williams, Prince Charles.... No... Lester Piggott. He even knew he had gone bankrupt so he must have been telling the truth. Bizzare!

C&N

Hello from Mamallapuram

Finally made it to Mamallapuram at 4pm India time, thats 11.30am, UK time. We were absolutely shattered, last slept on the Friday night at the Airport Hotel. Didn't get a wink of sleep on the plane as usual.

Delhi airport was ok, had to transfer to the domestic terminal which wasnt the farce we originally thought it might be. Flight to Chennai was an hour late.

Got a taxi to Mamallapuram, a beach town about 60km south of Chennai. It took two hours and after terrible traffic, people selling father christmas masks, and the smell of fish, poo and burning rubbish we finally got here.

It's ok here, boiling hot, pretty touristy but only by India's standards, and not THAT cheap. Although it cost us 1 pound 50 last night for byriani, naan bread and a lemon soda each!!

Lots of cows here, and pigs, and goats and dogs!! Roaming around the street owning the place. The beach is good fun, lots of fishing boats and the standard mitherers. Today we went to the shore temple and to see the rock carvings (The 5 Rathas). We also walked through the gardens where all the other carvings and caves were. Saw some monkeys and more goats and dogs.

Leaving Mamallapuram tomorrow to go to Pondicherry, about 2 hours by bus. Guy at the Bus stand made no sense when we asked him if we needed to buy a ticket and what time it left, just wobbled his head and pointed vaguely in the direction away from where all the buses were. Sure we'll be ok though.

Hope everyone is ok at home, and enjoying the snow.

Chris and Nikki

-10 in Helsinki!

Hello from Finland. Not got anything interesting to say really other than the flight is on time to Delhi, we landed 30 mins late because of a build up of flight traffic, and its absolutely freezeing here. Had to leave the plane and walk across the snow to a bus, even the bus was frozen.

Had to sit near some kids going to Lapland, they weren't too annoying but the grandma was an idiot. Reading Mr. Men at the top of her voice. We called her Jackanory.

Another 1010 taxis disaster on Friday. Driver didnt even know the way to the hotel at Terminal 2, and then missed the junction so we got a tour of Stockport.

It was good staying at the hotel before hand, ate a massive breakfast this morning to set us on our way. For once was chilled out before we went away!

Just checked in for our flight from Delhi to Chennai so hopefully all will go to plan and we should be at our hotel in Mamallapuram by 10am tomorrow (uk time)

Goodbye

C&N

A Month in South India

This blog is about our trip to southern India, where we will be spending a month travelling around the coast as well as venturing inland from Chennai to Mumbai.

On the way we plan to visit places such as Mamallapuram, Pondicherry, Rameswarem, Madurai, Trivndrum, Kollam, Kochi, Mangalore, Udupi, Gokarna, Hampi and Goa.

We leave for India on 19th December 2009 and we will keep this blog updated so our friends and family can see how we are doing and what we are up to.

C & N