The Keralan Backwaters and Fort Cochin

We've not been able to update for a few days as we've been staying in Kumarakom, a village in the backwaters of Kerala. We arrived on 28th December. We almost missed the train from Madurai to Kollam as the platform never appeard on the noticeboard so we assumed it hadn't arrived. As the time of departure grew ever closer a man approached us, a supreme court judge from Madras. He asked us where we were going and rushed over to the enquiry desk to ask what platform we were leaving from, "Train leaving..." he said. Bemused, I went to the enquiry desk myself and passed the guy my ticket ans asked which platform. He went white, then shouted "Go, train leaving! Platform 3!". We dashed to Platform 3 with our bags heavy on our backs. The train was already full, whistling ready to leave. I got to our carriage and threw the bags on and threw myself in, Nikki was right behind me and did the same. No sooner had we got on the train pulled away from the station. Couldn't believe it. We were lucky that a guy decided to talk to us otherwise we would have surely missed the train and had to stay in the dust-den that is Madurai for another night.

Got to Kollam in Kerala at about 9am. The difference in scenery from one state to the next was very apparent. Tamil Nadu was pretty dry, dusty and a bit... blah really. Kerala is so green, palm trees, swamps, rivers, grass, mango trees and spices all over the place. The people seem genuinely friendly as well.

Got a bus from Kollam to Alleppey, where we planned to catch a ferry across the lake to Kumarakom. The bus was so overcrowded. Should seat around 40 people I worked out, but half way into the journey there were easily 60-70 people on board. My toes were being stood on all the time, baby's were being thrust into me and Nikki was being crushed into the window. It was funny, looking back, but very uncomfortable and bit worrying at the time. People were clinging on to the outside. We had our backpacks on our knees and we felt like it was a thousand degrees. Was happy to get off at Alleppey. We found the boat jetty and I asked at the deks if there is a ferry to Kumarakom. The guide book said there are regular ferry's. Of course there was no such ferry, and the guy just looked at me with a blank expression saying "Kumarakom ferry? No, no no". There was a ferry to Kottayam, near Kumarakom, but that didnt leave for another 3 hours and we just wanted to get the hell out of Alleppey. We hopped in a Taxi outside the jetty and paid 800rps to get to Kumarakom. It took about an hour and half to get there. Wonderful scenery through the backwater villages.

Got to the homestay at around 2pm. It was extremely secluded. Really quiet, no traffic noise and no mitherers! Just birds singing and crickets chirping. The house was right on a canal with goats and ducks in the gardens. The family were very nice and very modern. They were Christians so there way of life was quite different from the Hindu people we have come across so far. The food they cooked us was superb, whole fried fish, veg curry's with coconut, stews and loads of breads. Best food so far easily.

We spent two days there just lazing around in the gardens reading and drinking chai. It was really relaxing. On the second night there were a couple more guest there and they made us play charades with the family. It was quite funny as I didnt know all the little signs like 'The' and 'A' but Nikki was a pro.

We took the canoe out on the backwaters which was nice, just a little trip but still managed to get a bit stuck in some undergrowth!

There were some REALLY annoying english people at the homestay with us. Words don't describe the woman but I've been perfecting an impression which I think goes a long way to describing her. She lived in the south of france and never let you forget about it. Thry pronounced all the Indian town names wrong but still insisted they were right, even when told otherwise by Indian people themselves. The woman got right under my skin and the guy was a bit of a drip. I tried to keep my temper with her and did really well, but on the last day I ended up snapping at her over the bus timings. Idiot that she was. Was glad when they left and we got on our way to Kochi.

We're in Fort Cochin now, we'll be here two more nights. Very nice here. It used to be a British enclave and has kept lots of it's colonial character. Last night we went to see the chinese fishing nets and watch the sun go down. There are lots of Thomsons type tourists here on trips from their beach resorts. They seem far too clean. We've travelled here all the way from Chennai and we are so bedraggled now, thanking god for clean undies that we are washing with medicated soap in the sink! We must look a right state compared to that lot.

I haven't had a shave since we arrived. The beard is coming along nicely, if just a bit patchy! If I get chance I will upload a photo. I'm aiming for the Brian Blessed look by the time I get back.

We're having a good time anyway. Travelling here makes you a bit weary. It's hard work I think but it is rewarding. The inbetween travelling has been quite demanding especially when you are tired. Things like waiting for trains and buses and ferrys seem to suck all the life out of you but when you get to where you are going it all seems worth it.

Not sure what is going on here tonight, lots of westerners around so I'm sure they'll be some sort of firework display down by the beach or something. We'll probably be in bed by 10 anyway!

Happy New Year everyone

N&C